Mint Art Co’s DIY Wallpaper Collections can transform any room from drab to fab – with no messy paste necessary. All our wallpapers are easy to remove as well, so no need to stress about changing your mind in a few years and wanting to refresh your space… You can choose new wallpaper and do it all again 😉

Mint Art Co’s Murals will come scaled to your wall dimensions. Just enter the width and height of your wall and we will calculate the rest. All our mural panels come with a 25mm overlap for ease of installation, and we will add an extra 50mm around the edges to accommodate those ‘just in case’ moments.

Our Peel & Stick Wallpapers are most popular for home installers, however our Spray & Up Wallpaper is also an easy alternative. Our Wet & Up is usually utilised by more commercial spaces.

 

Wallpaper Media Information

Fabric Texture – (Peel & Stick)

Reusable, Repositionable and Removable! Non-Toxic and Eco-Friendly Our peel and stick wallpaper is made of 100% polyester fabric. It can be removed and reused without damaging walls or surfaces. Install for a day or a decade. The fabric material is Class A or 1 fire rated, non-toxic, green, and phthalates free.  It is 99% block out – Great for overlapping panels, hiding dirty marks, scuffs and bright coloured walls. 

This wallpaper solves the hassles of traditional wall paper installations with an easy to apply, matte white self adhesive film. Ideal for the non-professional, DIY installer with no experience or tools required. Better yet, when you are done with that graphic it can be removed with minimal fuss and cleaning, Great for partial and full wall graphics.

APPLICATIONS

Home interiors decoration – including rental accommodation | Schools and office interiors | Retail and Point of Sale | Restaurants and Cafes.

 

Silk Paper Texture – (Spray & Up)

A beautiful textured wallpaper with a unique look. Quick, easy and clean. Eliminates the need for conventional wallcover paste. Simply spray the wall with water, then apply the wide format media directly.

APPLICATIONS

Home Interiors Decoration – including Rental Accommodation | Schools and Office Interiors | Retail and Point Of Sale | Restaurants and Cafes.

 

Commercial Grade Smooth – (Wet & Up)

This smooth wallpaper is pre-pasted. Simply activate the glue with water and install. There’s no need to handle separate glue or adhesives and no glue waste to deal with. You get strong adhesion, yet with this strippable wall paper, removal is easy and clean.

HP PVC-free Wall Paper printed with water-based HP Latex Inks produces odourless prints that meet GREENGUARD criteria for low emitting products. Flame retardant class A approved fire certification. Up to 20 years display permanence indoors, away from direct sun. Mould and mildew resistant. PVC-free alternative with a true, ultra-smooth wall paper finish.

APPLICATIONS

Offices and Retail | Schools and child care centres | Government Departments | Home interiors decoration

 

 

Other Wallpapers medias are available on request. Please contact our team for more information.

*Please note that images are for illustration purposes only and although all care is taken, with some prints the scale may differ slightly to shown. This is particularly true of murals, which will be scaled and cropped to your specific wall dimensions. 

 

Installation Instructions and Tips

Recommended Tools

The tools and equipment needed depend on the type of wallpaper selected. While there are some inexpensive tool kits available, if you expect to have more than one wallpaper project over the next few years, it is better to upgrade to quality wallpaper tools that will achieve superior performance.

The average project will require the following basic tools:

• Flat work surface
• Stanley knife (Break-away knife and extra blades)
• Metal measuring tape or ruler
• Broad knife or plastic smoother or smoothing brush
• Sponges or lint free towels
• Pencil
• Level
• Ladder
• 3″ masking tape

Surface Preparation

The most important part of the wallpaper job is to make sure the wall surface is properly prepared. Time spent before hanging the wallpaper will make the job easier and help ensure satisfactory results that will last for years.

Basic tips for all wall surfaces include:

Remove all switch plates, outlet plates and wall fixtures that are not permanent. If removing any type of electrical obstacle, remember to disconnect the source of electricity.

The wall surface should be cleaned, dry, structurally sound, and free of grease, mildew, or other stains.

Ball-point ink, grease, lipstick, crayon, or any foreign contamination should be cleaned with a stain killer primer/sealer to prevent any bleeding of the mark through the wallpaper. Marking pen inks must be removed from the wall.

Mildew should be cleaned from the wall surface with a solution of two cups household bleach per gallon of water. Rinse and allow to dry. Any mildew stains should be sealed with a good quality stain killer/primer, and any exterior and/or in-wall source of the moisture that may promote mildew growth must be eliminated.

Any loose paint must be removed from the wall. Glossy and semi-gloss paint should be sanded to dull the surface.

Any wall irregularities should be corrected with either spackling, drywall compound or other wall repair materials.

The most important step before applying a primer and hanging wallpaper is to make sure that the wall surface is clean, dry and sound.

Special Considerations

Each type of wall surface needs to be treated accordingly:

New drywall: Make sure the drywall is free of contaminants such as dust, dirt and mildew. Joints and spackled areas should be thoroughly cured and sanded smooth. Best results are obtained when the moisture content of the drywall is at or less than 5 percent. Apply a good quality opaque/white primer.

Paint: Test painted surfaces for moisture sensitivity. Hold a wet sponge or cloth to the paint surface for 15 seconds, then rub the surface vigorously with a cloth. If little or a slight amount of paint is removed, paint should be sound. If all or a large quantity is removed, the wall should be washed with ammonia and water or sanded and washed to remove the paint. Painted walls should also be tested for adhesion. Cut three small x’s into the painted wall surface, then apply a piece of clear cellophane tape over the x’s. Yank the tape off vigorously. Inspect the tape for any paint: no paint flakes indicates good adhesion. Paint flakes on the tape indicate that the paint adhesion is not adequate for hanging wallpaper. The wall should be sanded with a coarse sandpaper to remove or break through the old paint. All painted walls should be primed with a good quality opaque/white primer.

Walls where old wallpaper has been removed: old adhesives should be removed by sanding or by using adhesive remover. Rinse the wall and allow to dry. Old adhesives can act as a food source for mould and mildew and makes the wall surface uneven and difficult to bond to. If the wall shows any signs of existing mould or mildew, it should be washed with a diluted household bleach solution and thoroughly rinsed and allowed to dry. Repair the wall as necessary. If the old wallpaper is peelable, remove both the top and bottom layer of wallpaper.

Existing wallpaper: Make sure the wallpaper is firmly bonded to the wall and has no lifting seams or loose spots. You can check for poor adhesion by rubbing your hand over the surface of the wallpaper and listening for a “crackling” sound. Make sure the surface is clean and free of any dirt or grease. If the surface is textured or patterned, consider the wallpaper you are about to hang and decide what primers are suitable.

Panelling: Prime with adhesion promoting primer. Grooves should be filled, then reprimed and/or an appropriate wall liner should be used.

If there are any questions concerning the surface to be covered, test installations of a strip applied three days in advance of main installation is recommended or follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Engineer the Hanging Process

You don’t have to be a technical whiz to “engineer” a room. All this means is to determine your seam placements before beginning your installation to avoid waste mistakes. Other things to consider when planning a paper hanging are:

• the placement of the pattern so it is pleasing to the eye
• focal points
• accent walls
• border placement
• arrangements of doors and windows or other unique architectural features.

All these factors affect seam and pattern placement, and also determine starting points, ending points and area of mismatch.

The most likely point to start the engineering process should be the area of the room that will cause the most difficult situations. Once this area is planned, seam placement can be established in two different directions working from the problem area back to the ending point.

A rule of thumb is to try to avoid having a seam fall less than 2 inches next to an obstacle like a window, door or corner. In some rooms, this may not be possible.

While engineering a room, pattern placement also needs to be noted. Be sure to plan pattern placement so that the design falls at specific points on the wall that are aesthetically pleasing. Areas that need to be watched are:

ceiling line — do not cut a design element in half

chair rails — again, do not cut design elements in half

door/window headers and dados (areas above cabinets), etc.

Occasionally, pattern placement is more important than seam placement. When this is the case, the design element should be placed where it will be most visually pleasing. But, if at all possible, seam placement should still be considered.

Notes for hanging an entire room

While engineering the room, not only will seam placement be planned, but also the location of the mismatch – where the final strip to be hung will be butted up to another strip and the pattern may not match. Two factors affect this decision:

• pattern of the wallpaper
• architectural layout of the room

If hanging an entire room, choose the place where the partial strip will butt against a full strip, or where the mismatch will be most inconspicuous. Choose a short area of wall to place the mismatch, instead of having the mismatch be the length of an entire wall. The ideal place in most occasions is over a door or window that is not on the focal wall. There are times when the mismatch will be best placed in the corner behind a door, even though that will yield a mismatch the length of the wall.

A natural breaking place such as floor-to-ceiling fireplace can eliminate a mismatch, but only if the pattern being hung does not contain large design elements. If there are large design elements, the pattern needs to be hung with the main part of the design element symmetrical on each side of the breaking point, and then hang the walls going both right and left, planning where the mismatch will land.

After the mismatch point has been designated, decide where to start hanging based on seam placement from the engineering. It is possible to start in the middle of a wall and work in two different directions to the mismatch point.

Making a Plumb Line

For a successful hanging job, it is essential that your wallpaper be hung straight. Most homes, however, have walls and ceilings that are often slightly out of alignment. To compensate for this, you must begin your job with a truly vertical plumb line. In fact, you should make several vertical plumb lines around the room as you go along.

To make vertical plumb lines:

Decide where you want to begin your hanging.

Line up a carpenter’s level or straightedge/level and lightly draw a straight vertical line with a pencil. (Always use a pencil as inks may bleed through your wallpaper after it is hung.)

Line up your first strip of wallpaper with this line.

For best results, make several plumb lines around the room to make certain all wallpaper strips are straight.

Hang the first strip to the vertical line and allow overlap onto the ceiling and baseboard. Using a smoothing brush, broad knife or plastic smoother, remove any air bubbles and make sure all of the wallpaper has made good contact with the wall. Do not distort or stretch material while smoothing. Make relief cuts (diagonal cuts in windows and doors) with scissors or a knife. Trim with a broad knife and razor knife at the ceiling, baseboard, around windows, etc.

Proceed to second strip

Proceed in the same manner around the room.

 

Keep going! You’ve got it!

Enjoy your beautiful room.